Customizable Food Tour of Palermo Viejo

We'll start with a typical Porteño breakfast here: coffee and medialunas. Some guests opt for a submarino (warm milk with two chocolate bars you stir in yourself) or tea.

Fantastic architecture, sculptures, and plant life. This is a true oasis in the middle of all the bustle. Inside, we walk through several art installations and hear their stories unfold: a bronze street scene from Roman-era Naples, a Mercury statue with a message about commerce and religion, the most controversial sculpture in the park (with a genuinely wild ownership history), and a recreation of the mate plantation Carlos Thays used to jumpstart Argentina's mate industry.

Originally this was the gateway into Palermo Forest and the starting point of the first trolleys in Buenos Aires. One of the oldest monuments in the country is located here: a 2,000-year-old Roman column from the Roman Forum, gifted to the city by Rome in 1955. Nearby is the Garibaldi statue, where we pause for a toast with the Garibaldi cocktail. Here we also see the first street art of the day, a mural by Martín Ron on a building that's part of the Sociedad Rural Argentina.

This is one of the local, non-touristy grills where we stop for a traditional steak lunch, typically bife de chorizo with puré mixto. Vegetarian, pescatarian, and chicken options are available for guests who don't eat red meat.

Originally the site of a gasometer that dominated the neighborhood skyline. Since then it's been a park favored by locals and home to farmers markets and artisan markets on the weekends. The plaza itself carries a layered history: it was first named for a military campaign against Argentina's indigenous population, then renamed to honor Armenian immigrants who fled genocide, and today its plaques bear the names of Argentines of Armenian descent who were disappeared during the military dictatorship. From here we also talk about the Madres de Plaza de Mayo and the United States' role in the region. Around this area we visit a couple more food stops and explore side streets filled with street art, many of which don't show up separately on the map.

This is where we end the tour with gelato. Antiche Tentazioni is an Italian-style gelateria in Palermo Soho, made fresh in-house with no artificial colors or flavoring, and one of the better gelato spots in the city. Depending on the day we sometimes finish at a different heladería nearby instead.